Belfast
Sourdough fired outdoors in a Belfast garden. Pizzas come out one at a time and get cut on the table. Not a restaurant. Closer to being fed at someone’s house, because that is what it is.

01Next upBelfast
02How a night runsMethod
Written the way a recipe is, because that is what it is.
72 hours before
Flour, water, salt, and a starter that has been alive since 2023. Three days cold in the fridge is what makes the base taste of something.
The week before
Six or seven toppings, built round what the farms and growers round here actually have that week rather than round a laminated list. It changes every night, which is the point of a small one.
Twenty minutes before
Gas, not wood. Five hundred degrees in about twenty minutes, and it holds there. Less romantic, but a fire that needs tending is a second job when you are also the one serving, and at ninety seconds the base cannot tell.
From seven
Pizzas come out one at a time and get cut on the table. Nobody waits for everyone else to be served, because that is not how this works.

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